Thursday, March 15, 2007

Custom beadboard ceiling, reprise

Earlier this week I shared the progress of my new custom beadboard ceiling with a friend of mine, Ed Blysard. Ed is a fellow woodworker and turns some amazing custom pens (see his Renaissance Writing Instruments Web site). After reading my post about the new beadboard ceiling Ed pointed out that I should consider priming the back sides of the panels. After all, if there’s moisture in the air, it will find its way behind those wood panels. Considering the humid conditions of a bathroom, I think he’s right. Who knows what could happen to the boards and beadboard plywood if the back sides are left un-primed or un-painted.

Come on, Ed, I thought I was almost done with this project!


  1. Ed's right. Wood is a humidity sponge and will absorb ambient moisture almost regardless of what you seal it with. Priming all sides will let it absorb moisture somewhat symmetrically, making it less likely to cup or bow.

    But this rule applies mainly to solid wood and, if I recall, you made your beadboard with plywood so I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. It's important for things like cabinet doors, solid plank wainscotting, etc.

    Great job, BTW.

  2. Hello! I googled "plywood beadboard" and found your blog entry about your ceiling. My husband and I are about to install beadboard on our living room ceiling and have been trying to decide whether to use the plywood beadboard or the traditional toungue and groove. The guy and Home Depot said that the plywood beadboard would warp if used on the ceiling. Have you had any trouble with this? Would you use this kind again? Thanks in advance for your reply!